But you'll find all this in the Parker Meridien's wood-paneled coffee shop, which has a few vinyl booths, a counter with an open kitchen, and sports photos tacked on the walls. Informally called the "burger joint," it serves only burgers, drinks and brownies. (Two other restaurants on the lobby level - Norma's and Seppi's - offer a wide selection of lunch and dinner choices.)

Referring to the menu at the burger joint, a sign says: "If you don't see it, we don't have it." Another says: "Cash, cash and cash only."

Thick, juicy hamburgers are $4.50 and cheeseburgers are $5.50, each served on fluffy buns with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles and, of course, ketchup, mustard or mayonnaise. Slim fries are $1.50, Sam Adams beer on tap is $2.50, and a dark, chewy brownie is $1.50. Even though this all takes place on 57th St. - "slightly to the left of Carnegie Hall," as they said about the Russian Tea Room - you may have trouble finding the place. It's hidden inside the lobby behind a brown floor-to-ceiling curtain, as though the hotel managers aren't sure they want people to know they can get a $4.50 burger that's as good, if not as garnished, as the larger room-service burger at $21.

Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien, 118 W. 57th St. (212) 245-5000.

Irene Sax